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February 28, 2013

Metro

Restaurant review: HKK, the latest restaurant from the creators of Hakkasan, might offer some bizarre sounding dishes but its 15-course tasting menu serves up some true delights.

Stupefying tofu. No, that’s not an obscure 1970s prog rock album but the only way to describe the tenth dish served as part of the mammoth, no choice, surprise, 15-course tasting menu at this latest opening from the Hakkasan stable.

Served in a toban, or sizzling clay pot, a stout tower of deep-fried pumpkin-flavoured tofu with the texture of velvet sits in a rich and sticky stew of yam bean, pumpkin, preserved mooli, chicken and spring onion that’s been cooked in oyster and soya sauces and Shaoxing rice wine. It’s an umami mamma of a dish – like eating savoury custard with Marmite.

And it’s not even the best thing we eat. A whole cherry wood roasted Peking duck with a lacquered and…

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